After probably the best breakfast that we
have experience on the trip so far, we left
Chañarmuyo Bodega y Huéspedes and headed north on
our 6-hour trip to Cafayate. |
While
settling our account (which turned to be nothing
because everything was included), we bought a
hand-carved black rooster piggy bank. The cost was
2000 pesos AR, which exchanges to about $7 US at blue
dollar rate. Final thoughts on
Chañarmuyo Bodega y Huéspedes:
Driving
north, we passed from the La Rioja province into the
Catamarca province. The city of Catamarca was not on
our list of places to visit, which more than one of
the locals had told us was fortunate. If I understood
their reasoning correctly, this was because (and I
will try to express their intent as politely as
possible) Catamarca does not have anything in which
tourists would be interested. New
animal sightings today to add to our list from
yesterday: sheep, burros, and goats. There is no
fencing along the highway so we assume that these
animals are wild. We only had to slow or stop a couple
of times so far to let animals cross the road. |
The
highway through Catamarca province looks strikingly
like the California desert, particularly interstate 10
through Indio and Blythe. Mountain ranges on either
side of the highway,
creosote and miscellaneous low-growing scrub,
and not a cloud in the sky. Shortly
after passing from the Catamarca province into Salta
province, we arrived in Cafayate. Cafayate
is in the southernmost region of Salta province and is
the most popular region in the Salta province for
tourists because of the prime terroir conditions for
growing grapes. Having planned to be in Cafayate for
two days, I had originally put together a list of
bodegas to visit, but we were already planning to
abandon the striking out on our own approach
and hire a private guide to take us to a few places
that represent the best in Cafayate wine. Viñas
de Cafayate Wine Resort Nearing
the end of the day, we arrived at our accommodations,
Viñas de Cafayate Wine Resort. The resort was the
largest that we have seen thus far, featuring more
than 20 guest rooms. The wine and desert-themed crafts
were not unusual for what we have seen so far, but did
contradict our earlier observation about the lack of
color. |
Our
favorite feature was the availability of many quiet
places across the property with seats in which to
enjoy the weather, amaneceres (sunrises), or
atardeceres (sunsets), depending on the time of day
and orientation of the sun. Upon
arrival, we checked in with a desk agent who spoke
English, although at this point, I wasn’t speaking
English to anyone unless I needed to. There were some
tourists from London that we exchanged greetings with,
as well as several others, speaking languages other
than Español. The good
news on the dirty clothing problem was that they had
laundry service. All I had to do was to call servicios
(room service) and they picked up the dirties, to be
returned the following day cleaned. With charges per
item, of course, but at least we didn’t have to find a
laundromat in town. After
decompressing a bit from the long drive, we made
arrangements for dinner reservations and then bought a
bottle of Torrontés to enjoy while watching the sunset
over the vineyards. The Torrontés did not last long,
so we chased it with a bottle of espumante (sparkling)
Rosé of Malbec. |
Supper
was among the best that we have had yet. We chose
steaks, accompanied by locally produced Malbec.
|