After a breakfast of sautéed mushroom and cheese omelets, we reviewed our options of what to do in town. Although horseback riding and kayaking were available, the chilly weather moved us more toward hiking and sightseeing. In New Zealand, they refer to hiking trails as “tracks”. In Punakaiki, such tracks are available in abundance.

We initially made a wrong turn down a dead-end beach walkway but it turned out to be fortunate because we were able to see a solitary sea lion enjoying the beach. Our observation evidently made him nervous because he quickly headed out to sea after spotting us watching him.

One of the big attractions in Punakaiki is the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes at Dolomite Point. According to the geologic information, the Pancake Rocks are a rare formation created by alternating layers of marine skeletal remains, sand, and mud over millions of years to create stacks of limestone that resemble stacked pancakes. As the magic of tectonic forces thrusts the previously submerged structures above sea level, the water wears them down, creating caverns, blowholes, and other nonsense that God obviously created within the last few thousand years.

We then headed north to Truman Track, a 700m hike through a rain forest to the beach. During this hike we noticed animal traps that are set to capture stoats and rats. Until this trip, I had never heard of a stoat, which is a weasel-like creature that New Zealand introduced in the 1800s to control the rabbit population. Unfortunately, the stoats performed their job far too well, expanding their menu to include the endangered Blue Penguin.

Not quite ready to take a break, we ventured on to the Pororari River track. This track continues along the river for several kilometers through rain forest and limestone rock formations.

I wanted to make it back to town before 3:00 because everything shuts down for a two-hour siesta before dinner. We headed back and stopped for a disappointing lunch at the Punakaiki Tavern. I’m glad that we decided to cook our own meals instead on depending upon the Tavern for meals, as was recommended to us.

Back at the Wave Watcher’s Retreat, Lorna did some laundry and I had a nap. For supper, I made salads and seafood chowder, followed by grilled, stuffed pork pinwheels and roasted sweet potatoes.

Usually, stinging insects don’t find me tasty but the sandflies just wouldn’t leave me alone. I tried to relax on the porch but spent the whole time swatting bloodsucking sand flies until I gave up and relaxed inside.

Day 8: Drive to Nelson
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